The cold earth sleeps below, above the cold sky shines

Ukraine's Vernadsky Research Base on Winter Island off the Antarctic Peninsula.  They win the prize for my favorite card.  Mainly climate research.  A tourist site as well. (12 people year round) Conditions:  Temperature 36°F, clear, no wind.  Population = 816 Every so often, travelers come through McMurdo from other Antarctic Stations.  I've seen French, Italians and South Koreans hanging out by the hand-washing stations outside the galley--the usual McMurdo meeting place. Just to remind you, I've posted the map of the stations below.  Many bases/camps are open only in the summer. About 40 bases densely cluster above the Antarctic Circle on the warmer Antarctic Peninsula or its adjacent islands.  There, neither day nor night ever disappears completely and fauna and even flora abound.  The remaining bases are scattered about the continent, mostly in Eastern Antarctica (we are at the border between East and West). Although ...

View from Arrival Heights above McMurdo to Black Island and Mt. Discovery Conditions:  Temperature ~ 40° and sunny.  Population 816 Christmas was truly lovely. Xmas Eve 3:00 to 4:30:  Beautiful hike to Arrival Heights.  Temperature made it up to around 40° and winds were minimal.  Great views of Erebus, Cape Evans, and McMurdo. Above, looking down over Hut Point. Dean at Arrival Heights where explorers used watch for ships.  Erebus in background puffing away. 5:00 to 6:30 PM:  Dinner with the Medical Crew wonderfully prepared by the galley with lobster, crab, prime rib, croquembouche, lots of veggie offerings including fresh salad, Xmas cookies, chocolate, wine, etc. Croquembouche.  It reminded me of Lauren who has made these a few times. 6:45 PM:  Hanukkah candle lighting.  Three people--two Jews and one by marriage who wanted pics to send to his wife. 11:00 PM to 4:00 AM  Insomnia.  Virome w...

Medical team with Santa at VMF party Conditions:  Temperature 35. Sunny (24 hours a day).  Population = 816 The holidays are a huge deal at McMurdo.  There are only two times when we get two days off in a row.  Christmas (12/24 and 12/25)  and New Years (12/31 and 1/1). I've told you already that Hanukkah is pretty much a dud.  We have a menorah in the galley that was beautifully engineered by the machine shop a few years ago.  It has been unceremoniously placed on a table next to a fire extinguisher and adjacent to a second table where someone is required to sit, watching the candles for as long as they burn.  I guess after 2000 years, the Christian world still thinks the Jews will burn down the place if given the chance.  Over the first three nights, four Jews have attended the candle lighting with an occasional one or two others--Dean usually-- looking on.  The whole little ceremony does not feel celebratory....